New Zealand - Aotearoa

43. Christchurch Tribute 2011

2011-06-07T08:57:00.003+12:00

It's been a long time since last I wrote. Instead of writing the next part of my travels in New Zealand, I write this as a tribute to those who lost loved ones and those who suffered or were touched in some way by the terrible earthquake which hit Christchurch in February this year.

I was in Laos at the time and having gone back to my hotel, put the telly on and settled back to watch a show. The first thing I saw and heard was about the earthquake in Christchurch and I couldn't understand why they were reporting something that happened five months previously. It took a few minutes to realise they weren't. I sat there shocked as I learned of the earthquake that had all but destroyed a city. It had happened that day - February 22, 2011.

I felt so sad and just cried at the devastation and destruction. My memories of Christchurch are of a beautiful city with lovely parks and gardens - brilliant flowers, tall, stately buildings and wide, clean streets.

Below is a collage of some of those memories.

Christchurch before the earthquakes

42. Greymouth - Accommodation

2009-12-28T20:30:00.004+13:00

Saturday 13th January

Walked from the station to the YHA. Greymouth itself was a rather unappealing place - then again it was a Saturday and perhaps it may be more lively during the week. However, our accommodation more than made up for Greymouth's lack of beauty.

YHA Greymouth - Kainga-ra

The magnificant Kainga-ra is nestled amongst a bush-clad hill with plenty of trees and lovely gardens.

Originally a Marist Brothers residence in the 1930s, the building is full of character and ambience. It's on the side of a steep hill (it was very steep lugging a suitcase up the driveway!) and overlooks the sea. Kainga-ra YHA Greymouth is a beautiful old building and you get superb views sitting on the front verandah.

The Lounge and Hall area

The old chapel has been converted into a bedroom and the study into a lounge. There's a guitar and a piano which you are allowed to use. When I was here, the Christmas tree was still up and there were still some Christmas decorations. The lounge was done out in beautiful warm colours of deep red/maroon.

The Bedroom

The Tranz Alpine was part of my Magic pass and so I arrived at the hostel long before the Magic bus did with its load of passengers. Ergo I got to choose which bed I wanted - mine is the lower bunk on the left-hand side. That's my red cap on it. (All the other bits and pieces are mine too!)

41. Tranz Alpine & Arthur's Pass

2009-12-28T19:50:00.015+13:00

Saturday 13 January

Today it's off to begin my South Island journey. The shuttle stopped at the YHA around 7.15am to take me and others to the Christchurch railway station. Weather was cool but pleasant. People were milling around taking photos of the train and excitement was high.

The Tranz Alpine travels between Christchurch and Greymouth, from one coast of New Zealand to the other. On the way you can see the fields of the Canterbury Plains and farmland, and the spectacular gorges and river valleys of the Waimakariri River.

Pretty much the whole way we had overcast skies, heavy cloud and rain, rain, rain! Which meant riding in the "viewing" platform (an open air carriage) was nigh on impossible. It rained the whole time we were on the train - except for about 20 minutes. But it really is a great trip. Strangely enough, a family member made this trip across the Southern Alps in winter this year (2009) and had blue, sunny skies!

The TranzAlpine

And of course I, along with countless others stood in front of the Tranz Alpine and "posed" - not a particularly attractive photo but, it's the only one I have. (It should perhaps be pointed out, that since my NZ trip I've lost heaps of weight!)☺
The train left on time at 8.15am and the fun begins.

Tranz Scenic offered 20% discount for YHA members when I was there, not sure if they still do. I can recommend the trip very highly it's one of the most breathtaking train rides you'll ever have. You get off at Arthur's Pass, everyone takes photos you have about 10-15 minutes before reboarding. I remember the train was longer than the platform.

Arthur's Pass

ARTHURS PASS is nestled amongst the Southern Alps in New Zealand's South Island, and marks part of the boundary between Westland and Canterbury, 140 km from Christchurch and 95 km from Greymouth. the train pulls in at 10:42am.

The pass lies in a saddle between the valleys of the Otira River, a tributary of the Taramakau, in the west and the Bealey River in the east. Arthur's Pass lies on the border of the Selwyn and Grey districts. Long before surveyor Arthur Dudley Dobson found his way over the pass in 1864, it was known to Māori hunting parties as a route between east and west.

You can see the heavy fog surrounding the station.

Arthur's Pass NP

The eastern side of Arthur's Pass National Park is characterised by wide, shingle-filled riverbeds and vast beech forests. The western side of the park, where wet weather is more common than dry, has deeply gorged rivers flowing through dense rainforest. Down the middle of 'the great divide' is an alpine dreamland of snow-covered peaks, glaciers and scree slopes.

View on left side

Southern Alps

Road Track and Mountains

Waimakariri River

The Waimakariri River flows for 151 km from the Southern Alps across the Canterbury Plains to the Pacific Ocean

It rises on the east of the Southern Alps 8 km s/w of Arthur's Pass. For much of its upper reaches the river's braided with wide shingle beds. As it nears the Canterbury Plains, it passes through a belt of mountains and is forced into a narrow canyon - Waimakariri Gorge, before reverting to its braided form for its passage across the plains. The river enters the Pacific north of Christchurch near Kaiapoi.

Misty Mountains

The train climbs into the Southern Alps before descending through lush beech rain forest to the West Coast town of Greymouth where we arrived at 12.45pm.

The trip is 223.8 kms long takes just four and a half hours. There are 16 tunnels, and 5 viaducts, the highest being the Staircase standing at 73 metres.

40. Marlborough Region & Picton

2009-12-17T09:17:00.005+13:00

Friday 12 January

Today is my last look at the North Island as I make my way to the South Island. The shuttle bus arrived at 7.30am and arrived at the Wellington ferry terminal at 7.45. I had booked the 8.25 ferry which would arrive in time to catch the Tranz Coastal (train) from Picton to Christchurch. The ferry crossing takes 3 hours.

The "Arahura"

Arahura is a Māori word meaning "pathway to dawn".
The Arahura has been sailing across the Cook Strait since 1984 and can carry up to 550 passengers. There's a food court, a bar, and has extensive food and beverage facilities.

The onboard facilities are very good, with a cinema, lounge, and outside observation decks.

Ship Ahoy!

It was very windy as you can see. I love sitting outside and usually do, but I and other hardy souls made for indoors as the wind was icy and the chill factor seemed to seep into one's bones.

Marlborough Sounds

The Marlborough Sounds are an extensive network of sea-drowned valleys created by a combination of land subsidence and rising sea levels at the north of the South Island of New Zealand. According to Māori mythology, the sounds are the prows of the sunken waka (canoe) of Aoraki.

The main channels of the Marlborough Sounds have calm water and are popular for sailing. Cook Strait, however, is infamous for its strong currents and rough waters, especially when the wind is from the south or north. Because of this, some of the narrow channels closer to the Strait are dangerous.

How The Sounds Were Formed
The Marlborough Sounds is a network of fjiord-like waterways, sheltered by steep hills, most clad in native and timber forests. Geologists would describe the Sounds as ‘drowned valleys’, where in past millennia, the mountains sank in earth movements and the sea flooded into the valleys. Māori legend tells a more exotic story of their creation, how as Kupe wrestled with a giant octopus he grasped at the South Island for support, his fingers digging deep and carving out the waterways.

Tory Channel

Tory Channel is named after the "Tory", a pioneer ship that brought British colonists to Wellington in 1840. It lies to the south of Arapawa Island, separating it from the mainland and forms a substantial part of the ferry route between Wellington and Picton.

Queen Charlotte Sounds

Queen Charlotte Sound is the easternmost of the main sounds of the Marlborough Sounds, in New Zealand's South Island, and like the other sounds, is a drowned river valley.

The area was a base for whaling throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, notably at Perano Head on Arapawa Island which lies to the east. Queen Charlotte Sound has calm water and is popular for sailing - a marked contrast to the notorious waters of Cook Strait.

The town of Picton, the northern terminus of the South Island's railway and State Highway networks, lies near the head of the Sound.

Picton

At the head of Queen Charlotte Sound is Picton, a quaint waterfront village - gateway to the South Island. Picton is the main link between the South and North Island, with scheduled ferry service over Cook Strait. I had an hour os so to spare before my train left and went for a stroll around the streets.

Dublin Street Roundabout

Having Irish ancestry, I just had to get a photo of this!

World War I Memorial

Overlooking the foreshore, the Sounds War Memorial was dedicated and unveiled in 1925. The inscription reads: "To Commemorate the Sounds Men who fell in the Great War 1914-1918", (21 names). Another eight names were added and a platform built around the memorial after World War II.

The Kiwis honour their soldiers with Remembrance Day (11 November) as well as Anzac Day (25 April), which is a national holiday.

Welcome to Picton

This sign is placed stragically along the walk from the ferry to the town.

The Tranz Coastal
The TranzCoastal train journey travels between Picton and Christchurch, departing Picton at 1.00pm and arriving Christchurch at 6.21pm. I fell asleep on the train and broke the side arm of my glasses. When going to the buffet car, my watch strap broke due to the train rocking wildly causing me to lose balance and hitting my arm on the wall of the carriage.

The Journey

The TranzCoastal travels through 22 tunnels and crosses 175 bridges. As on the TranzAlpine, the TranzCoastal includes an open air viewing carriage where all your senses are awakened with the clean, fresh, sea air. (The above photo is from Tranzscenic)

It was raining and foggy and we arrived 30 minutes late. The shuttle bus costs $5.00 and I arrived back at the YHA in Manchester Street. Wonderful staff at this YHA - they had placed a sign saying "Reserved for.. Room 2"

39. Wellington - Te Papa

2009-12-13T08:35:00.001+13:00

Thursday 11 January

AS I strolled along the waterfront, my next stop was at Te Papa Tongawera - or as it is more commonly known, just Te Papa. It is New Zealand's national museum and has a huge array of Māori exhibits. It also had an entire floor devoted to LOTR!

Te Papa Tongawera

Ceremonial Chair

Waka

Basket

Necklace

Skirt

Sandals

Sandals woven from flax.

Marae

Te Hono ki Hawaiki

Te Hono ki Hawaiki is not a conventional meeting-house but, rather, a foreshortened structure at the rear of the open performance space or marae atea.

Corrugated HQ Holden

This 1974 Holden Kingswood was clad with corrugated iron by Jeff Thomson in 1991 and driven around for three years. It is one of the most popularly photographed items in the museum.

38. Wellington - Harbour Walk

2009-12-13T06:07:00.003+13:00

Thursday 11 January

After riding on the cable car, I strolled along the waterfront of Wellington's magnificent harbour, which I thought much prettier than Auckland's.

Wellington Harbour

Academy Galleries

Founded in 1882, the Academy of Fine Arts is now housed on the ground floor of the architecturally stunning and heritage protected Wharf Offices Apartments Building in Queen's Wharf.

The Academy Galleries support New Zealand's emerging and established artists through the sale of New Zealand Art as well as fostering a national appreciation and pride of fine art produced by artists around the country.

A non-profit making private company, the Galleries is located at 1 Queens Wharf Lambton just a 2 minute walk from Downtown Wellington.

Frank Kitts Park - Climbing Lighthouse

The lighthouse was designed in the late 1980's by Mark Pennington.

Completed in the late 1980s, Frank Kitts Park on Jervois Quay in the central city, was one of the first areas of the waterfront to be developed. The design was heavily influenced by the annual street car race that ran through the area at that time.

The waterfront also bustles with a myriad of cafes, restaurants and bars. After your waterfront adventure relax with a cup of coffee or a meal. Sit back and take in the breathtaking views.

The Mast from the Wahine

The fore-mast is part of a memorial and is in Frank Kitts Park.

The Wahine was an Interislander ferry which sank on 10 April 1968. Of the 610 passengers and 123 crew on board, 51 people lost their lives.

Two violent storms merged over Wellington, creating a single extratropical cyclone storm - Cyclone Giselle hit as the Wahine was crossing Cook Strait Captain Hector Robertson entered Pencarrow Head but the Wahine hit the rocks on Barrett Reef. The radar no longer worked and winds were up to 160 km/h.

Further reading about the Wahine disaster.

Wellington Harbour

Wellington’s magnificent harbour is a lake-like expanse of sheltered water surrounded by hills, with a narrow entrance to the sea.

A raised rock platform (a legacy of the great 1855 earthquake) surrounds the harbour’s edge. Today much of this is obscured by roads. In other places it is interspersed with sandy beaches.

In Māori the harbour is Te Whanganui-a-Tara (the great harbour of Tara) and Pōneke is the Māori name for Wellington.

Light Balls & Boatsheds

In the rear is the Star Boating Club which was formed in 1856 and is believed to be one of the oldest surviving sports clubs in New Zealand.

William Chatfield, the Thorndon Village Architect, designed the current club building on iron rails in 1885. It was later moved to Jervois Quay and is now at the Taranaki St Wharf

These spherical "balls" of which there are 33 in total, are called light balls and were created not only to represent bollards but to also provide lighting features.

Kupe, with Wife and Priest

The imposing bronze Kupe Group Statue, occupying pride of place on Taranaki Street Wharf, was originally designed in 1939 by Christchurch sculptor William Threthewey for the 1940 New Zealand Centennial Exhibition held at Rongotai, Wellington.

It was originally created in plaster and finished with bronze paint. Following the exhibition, the statue sat for 40 years at the Wellington Railway Station and ten at the Wellington Show and Sports Centre before being stored at the Te Papa, the national museum in 1997, as a national treasure. The statue was cast in bronze in 1999 as a millenium project and unveiled on 4 March 2000 as a tribute to all who have come to these shores.

The sculpture features Kupe Raiatea, the great Māori explorer and discoverer of Wellington harbour, his wife Te Aparangi and tohunga Pekahourangi.

The plaque at the base reads:
Matahourua te waka, ko Kupe te tangata, ko Hine-te-aparangi te wahine.

Kupe Raiatea the Explorer.
His wife Hine-te-aparangi.
And Pekahourang the tohunga
Sight Aotearoa, New Zealand
from their canoe Matahourua.

Circa Theatre

The theatre was formed in 1976, by an innovative group of people committed to presenting theatre of the highest possible standard.

In 1994 Circa moved to its present purpose-built site on the waterfront. Grant Tilly, one of the original Circa members, worked as theatre consultant with Ampersand Architects Ltd.

Apart from the historic brick Westport Chambers facade facing the Museum Plaza all new construction is timberThe main auditorium can seat around 250. and an extra 100 in a smaller studio space.

Harbour Walk
Click on the blue markers for photo, you can also enlarge the map.

View Wellington in a larger map

37. Wellington - Cable Car

2009-12-13T05:37:00.001+13:00

Thursday 11 January

There were two things I really wanted to do - ride on the Cable Car and go to Te Papa Tongarewa.

Wellingnton Cable Car

The Wellington Cable Car is one of Wellington’s oldest & most popular tourist attractions.

The Wellington Cable Car is a funicular railway in Wellington New Zealand. It carries passengers between Lambton Quay the main shopping street and Kelburn a suburb in the hills overlooking the central cit, rising 120 m over a length of 612 m. It is widely recognised as a symbol of Wellington

The Cable Car has two cars, which start from opposite ends of the line and pass in the middle. They are attached to each other by a 30-mm diameter cable, supported by 120 rollers, which runs round a pulley at the top

Going Down - The Rails

The best view is in the front seat for an unobstructed view of what lies ahead, I had to stand to get these shots as people decided to stand in front of the seats.

Through The tunnel

Coming back down, looking ahead from the cable car.

Over the Harbour

You can read about the history of the cable car.

Wellington Harbour

You get magnificent views from the top of the Botanical Gardens. There's a restaurant and bistro (the bistro's cheaper) and I had coffee and cake ($7.50) on the balcony. The best spot is the round section outside. I met a Swiss banker called Stefan and another Swiss (forget his name), who was studying medecine in America. They were both very friendly and gentlemanly. I must say though, that that little Swiss banker was the daintiest chap I ever met!

Cable Car Station

This is where you alight from the cable car once you reach the top, although there are other "stations" along the way.

Wellington Botanic Gardens

The Wellington Botanic Garden features 25 hectares of unique landscape, protected native forest, conifers, specialised plant collections, colourful floral displays, and views over Wellington city.

It is classified as a Garden of National Significance by the Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture and is an Historic Places Trust Heritage Area.

You can enter from Tinakori Road, Glenmore Street, Salamanca Road, Upland Road or the popular Cable Car.

I chose the cable car - you get marvellous views.

Rooftops Over The Harbour

Can you imagine the wonderful views you'd have waking up here every morning? Lovely spot to live and good exercise walking up (and down) that hill!

36. Wellington - City Walk

2009-12-13T04:51:00.001+13:00

Thursday 11 January

After a lazy morning spent reading, I walked down Wakefield Street and bought a pegless clothesline from the Camping Store for $9.80 and found some lovely Christmas wrapping paper and postcards from Whitcoulls - made in England and only $3.00!

Wellington is becoming known as a centre for works of contemporary public art. Much of this reputation is based on the many sculptures commissioned from leading artists by the Wellington Sculpture Trust.

The Trust, active since 1984, raises funds and selects a wide variety of art for particular sites. It has the full support of the Wellington City Council which makes the sites available, assists with funding and assumes ownership after completion.

John Plimmer Statue

A man and his dog - John Plimmer (1812 – 1905) came from Shropshire on the ship Gertrude in 1841 & is called the Father of Wellington He was a member of the Wellington Provincial Council 1856-1857 the first Wellington Town Board 1863 & was on the Wellington City Council 1870-1871

His principal public service was the organisation of the Wellington & Manawatu Railway Company between 1880 & 1886

This bronze statue was created by Tom Tischler Ross Wilson Judy Alexander & Peter Kundycki in 1996 and is at the Plimmer Steps.

Bank of New Zealand

The Old Bank Building is one of Wellington's most famous landmarks - 2001 marked the hundred-year anniversary of this magnificent building - a testament as much to the architecture of John Turnbull & the original builders as it is to the incredible restoration work that has seen the Old Bank return to its former glory

A trip to the Old Bank is not just a retail thrill - it's a chance to experience a world of history and style that transcends the ages

It now houses the most exquisite fashion & beauty designs

Protoplasm

Created by Phil Price and located on the corner of Hunter Street and Lambton Quay, this interesting sculpture is one of several called Protoplasm.

Cable Car Lane

The Cable Car sculpture was created by Hugh Nicholson and Bob Sharpe in 2002, and is made of steel. It is located at Cable Car Lane.

Invisible City

Invisible City by Anton Parons was presented to the city with assistance from the Jack and Emma Griffin Charitable Trust and the Wellington City Council.

The stainless steel of this sculpture seems to glow with an inner light. The magnified Braille text suggests a message, but the artist chooses to deny us access, raising issues of communication in the contemporary world, and the difficult interface between the disabled and the rest of the community.

It was installed 2003.

Walk To The Water

This sculpture made of steel was created by Jerry Luhman and Bob Sharpe in 2000 and is at the corner of Grey Street & Lambton Quay.

35. Wellington - Accommodation & a Funny Story

2009-12-12T21:58:00.001+13:00

Wednesday 10 January

We arrived in Wellington at 4.00pm and did not get driven up Mt. Victoria because of fog and rain, which was a bit disappointing, but we can't control the weather.

YHA Wellington City

The YHA was excellent, I had Room 606 on the 6th Floor and had a marvelous view. There only other occupant was Rachel, who was from Perth. She'd been in Welly a couple of weeks and was working or looking for work.

The Terrace Lounge was a lovely quiet area where you could read and there was a small balcony outside. The kitchen and dining room were excellent with very good facilities.

View From My Dorm Window

This photo was taken from a window at the YHA on the corner of Wakefield Street and Oriental Parade and looks out over the supermarket to the harbour.

The funny story
Although it wasn't funny at the time, I can laugh about it now. I hand washed my underwearand hung them on the window latches. I kept checking to make sure they hadn't blown off - still there, that's alright then. But, horror of horrors! Next time I looked, they were gone. The bra had fallen down. Went to reception, looked for a female worker, but there were none. Explained to the young fellow and asked where would they have fallen and could I get them please? What was it that fell down, he wanted to know. Clothes, said I. What clothes, said he. Underwer, said I. What was it and what colour was it said he.

Oh-oh, nothing doing. He said they would have landed on the rooftop outside reception and I wasn't allowed there. He went and "retrieved" them and said coming back, "What colour is it? Is this it"? I was soooo embarrassed. He tried very hard not to smile - as I said, he tried, I didn't say he succeeded. What made it doubling embarrassing was there were two young blokes on reception.

View From My Dorm Window

The Fire Station could be seen from the other window in my dorm.
This essentially Moderne building built to replace the previous Central Fire Station has a symmetrical facade & a set-back central tower decorated with vestiges of Art Deco

First planned in 1932 by architect C.H. Mitchell it was officially opened by the Governor General Lord Galway on 1 December 1937

The clock a gift to the city from the Blundell family was originally placed in the Wellington Town Hall in 1922 but after the removal of the Town
Hall tower for earthquake reasons it was moved here.

Outdoor Courtyard

This is where I sat with a couple of people from the YHA and celebrated my birthday - with liquid refreshment. A nice bottle of wine, some beer, and more wine and we had a jolly good time.

34. Taupo to Wellington - Magic Birthday - 2

2009-12-12T02:48:00.002+13:00

Wednesday 10 January

Magic Birthday Photo

I had asked our driver Paris earlier in the day if I could have a group photo taken for my birthday and he said yes that'd be alright, he'd get everybody lined up when we stopped for a break.

We stopped at the Wild Bean Cafe in Palmerston North and I reminded him, but he forgot. When I mentioned it again, he was very good about it, and said to everybody, "Okay, everybody off the bus, we're all going to pose for a birthday photo."

There was grumbling and mutterings (it was very cold and pretty wet) and they didn't want to. But he wouldn't take no for an answer, and made everyone get off - which I thought was very good of him. Below is a close-up - that's me in the red cap, our driver is on my left in the blue board shorts.

My Magic Birthday

Here we all are - my travelling companions on this day.
Thanks Paris for doing this - you're a real brick. It's one birthday I'll never forget.:-)

33. Taupo to Wellington - Magic Birthday 1

2009-12-12T02:26:00.002+13:00

Wednesday 10 January

Today is my birthday and we left Taupo at 8.00am. It was wet, foggy and one of the most boring road trips ever. Had I known that this part of the trip there are no "activities" - it was just a c ase of getting from A to B (Taupo to Wellington), I'd have arranged my trip differently. Ah well, we live and learn! No photos were possible of Mount Ruapehu ot Tongariro NP - you couldn't see through the fog. Although the sky was a bit clearer further south.

Art Gallery

This bright blue building is at 43 Mataroa Rd. Taihape. Taihape is a small market town on the southern edge of the Central Volcanic Plateau, and occupies a basin on the banks of the Hautapu River. It was originally known as Koronokonui. Today, it promotes itself as the "Gumboot capital of New Zealand" - the locals compete aggressively in the celebrated annual "Gumboot Throwing Contest" in which participants endeavour to toss a gumboot the greatest distance across a paddock.

Along the way

Scenery from the bus window somewhere along the highway.

Morning Tea stop

We stopped here for a tea break. I can't remember the name of the place, but if I do I'll post it up.

Morning Tea stop

Sheep

I just had to get a photo of sheep - where would New Zealand be without all its sheep? Did you know New Zealand has 13 times as many sheep as people? - that's approx. 47.2 million sheep.
No wonder there are so many sheep jokes. (All New Zealand jokes are about sheep!)

32. Taupo - Taniwha

2009-12-10T02:25:00.009+13:00

Tuesday 9 January

Taniwha

Taniwha are supernatural creatures and in the Māori world view they were seen as part of the natural environment. Taniwha have been described as fabulous monsters that live in deep water. Others refer to them as dragons. Taniwha were either male or female. They usually lived in or near the water – lakes, rivers or the sea. They hid in lairs known as rua taniwha, which could be deep pools, caves, or dangerous waterways – areas that people avoided.

In some traditions, taniwha were terrifying creatures that captured people and ate them. Occasionally, it was said that they would kidnap women to live with them as wives. These monsters would inevitably be killed and the women returned to their families.

Taniwha Tablet

This stone tablet was near the taniwha in the first photo.

Taniwha and Chiefs
Taniwha were also a symbol for great chiefs. There is a proverb from Waikato:

Waikato taniwha rau, he piko he taniwha.

Waikato of a hundred taniwha, every bend a taniwha
For some this refers to the many taniwha of the Waikato River, while for others it is about the many important chiefs of the area.

Waikato River

The Waikato River, the longest in New Zealand, rises on the slopes of Mount Ruapehu in Tongariro NP as the Tongariro River, it then flows north through Lake Taupo and, issuing from the lake's north eastern corner, tumbles over Huka Falls and flows northwest to enter the Tasman Sea south of Auckland. The river is 425 km in length, and has a gentle gradient and carries a heavy load of ash from the volcanic highlands. The Waikato has formed numerous lakes and lagoons along its lower reaches.

Origin of the name
The name Waikato originated during the voyage of the Tainui canoe, which had journeyed from Polynesia. Arriving just off the mouth of the river, the crew remarked upon the kato (the pull of the river current in the sea) and thereafter the name Waikato (wai meaning water) was given to the river.

31. Taupo - Huka Falls

2009-12-09T23:41:00.004+13:00

Tuesday 9 January

After we left Wai-O-Tapu, we stopped at a place called Rock'n'Ropes - a couple of adventurous souls had a go. The weather had turned nasty and I remember siting on some sort of verandah until it wastime to get back on the bus.

The next stop was Huka Falls. The name Huka is the Māori word for 'foam', which is appropriate as the falling water and rapids certainly resembles foam, especially under flooding conditions.

Huka Falls

It was an incredible sight - and sound, as more than 220,000 litres of water per second comes gushing down.

Huka Falls

At the Huka Falls, the Waikato River which is normally 100m wide, is squeezed through a 20 metre wide gorge and over a 20m drop.
Every second up to 220,000 litres of water gushes through the gorge and shoots out over 8 metres beyond to create a beautful blue/green pool.

Huka Falls Bridge

Huka Falls is located in Wairakei Park. This is only a short 5 minute drive north of Lake Taupo. This pedestrian bridge gives a marvelous view of the falls and is a very good place for photography.

30. Rotorua - Wai-O-Tapu

2009-12-09T02:25:00.000+13:00

Tuesday 9 January

Wai-O-Tapu Geothermal Area is the most diverse and spectacular geothermal area in the Taupo Volcanic Zone. The publically accessible part is only a small portion of the 18 square km area.

Champagne Pool

Colouful mineral deposits in overflow from Champagne Pool Hot Spring

Devil's Ink Pots

Devil's Ink Pots (crude oil and graphite form dark areas on surface.

Thunder Crater

Thunder crater - collapse feature formed in 1968.

Keep Off The Grass!

We were told not to try dipping our hand in any of the pools or go walking off the designated tracks - otherwise we'd "fry."

Primrose Sinter Terrace

After destruction of the Pink and White terraces in lake Rotomahana by the 1886 eruption of Mt. Tarawera, touristic focus in the area shifted to Wai-O-Tapu which had the largest remaining sinter terrace in New Zealand.

Wai-O-Tapu is located on the northern perimeter of the Reporoa caldera. This caldera is approximately 10x15 km in size and was formed 230000 years ago during a massive eruption which emplaced 100 cubic kilometers of breccia (ash and pumice) referred to as the Kaingaroa Ignimbrites. These are over 30m thick in places. Around the time of the Kaharoa eruption of nearby Tarawera (800 years ago) a number of large hydrothermal eruptions occurred in Wai-O-Tapu. Drill holes at Wai-O-Tapu show that the current source of heat is located under the N margin of Reporoa and the S part of Wai-O-Tapu.

Rainbow Crater

Colours are the result of sulphur and other minerals exposed.

Obey The Signs

29. Rotorua - Wai-O-Tapu

2009-12-09T02:21:00.000+13:00

Tuesday 9 January

Artist's Palette

Sulphur rich hot spring. Overflowing water from the Champagne Pool draws with it minerals that have originated from below the surface. As the waters cool and the minerals are exposed to the atmosphere, they show in a variety of colours depending on wind direction and water level.

Thou Shalt Not Throw Stones!

The sign speaks for itself.

Opal Pool

Such a beautiful colour, but oh, so deadly.

Sinter (Silica)Terrace Crossing

Champagne Pool

The surface features of the geothermal area are generated by groundwater that is superheated deep underground by old magma bodies which have not yet fully cooled. The superheated water dissolves minerals from rocks and deposits underground and deposits these in places where it reaches the surface and evaporates.

The colours of the deposits indicates the minerals involved in the process - green (colloidal sulphur / ferrous salts), orange (antimony), purple (manganese oxide), white (solica), yellow (sulphur), red (iron oxides) and black (sulphur / carbon).

28. Rotorua - Wai-O-Tapu

2009-12-07T04:53:00.035+13:00

Tuesday 9 January

Rainbow Crater

Well over a dozen craters are located within close proximity. They range from 5-50 metres in diameter and up to 20 metres deep. All were formed by the ground surface collapsing. It is believed under this area subterranean waterways have eroded away rock structure alowing the surface ground to collapse away forming craters. Many craters have various types of geothermal activity such as boiling pools, steam fumeroles, sulphur vents and mud pools. The pumice ground is this area is coloured by various oxides.

Purple - Magnanese Oxide,
Red/Brown - Ferrous Oxide
Yellow - Sulphur.

Inferno Crater

The crater has a bottom of violently boiling mud. In recent history an earth archway linking the sides has been completely destroyed by the action of acidic steam.

Champagne Pool

The pool fills a 900 year old crater which is roughly 60 metres across and 60 metres deep. The waters are tinted green with arsenic, sulphur and iron compounds. It bubbles with carbon dioxide at about 74º C and deposits orange antimony and traces of gold, silver and mercury on its rim and the huge sinter terraces that drain it.

Champagne Pool

Orange Antimony-rich deposits. The Champagne Pool is the most colourful and most popular.

Champagne Pool

Mineral deposits give the Champagne Pool at Wai-O-tapu Thermal Wonderland near Rotorua its edges the beautiful colours and unique formations

27. Rotorua - Geysers & Geothermal Wonders

2009-12-07T04:36:00.197+13:00

Tuesday 9 January

Our driver, Paris was over 25 minutes late in arriving and told us he didn't have time because of this to take us past the Government Gardens. Many, in fact, most, of the passengers complained loudly about this, as this was one of our "highlights", and you could have cut the air with a knife - the temperature dropped about 10 degrees! He (the driver) tried very hard to joke and stuff, but the passengers were not forgiving.

Wai-O-Tapu was fantastic, but we didn't have nearly enough time there. The time spent at a bungy jumping place later in the day was very long and very boring. It would have been better having more time at the geothermal areas and less at the bungy jump. We had to drive past the hostels to get to the bungy thing and many passengers asked could they be dropped off there as they weren't interested in looking at the bungy jump place.

Nothing doing - we all had to hang around at the bungy jump place. The weather had steadily worsened after leaving Wai-O-Tapu, and it was absolutely pouring, and when we did finally get to our hostels, you couldn't go anywhere - it just continued to pour buckets.

Geothermal Activity

As we approached the geothermal areas you could see the activity going on from the bus.

Lady Knox Geyser

Our first stop was at the Lady Knox Geyser which erupts every day at 10.15am - soap is dropped into the opening vent to ensure this occurs. Depending on the weather, the eruption can be up to 20m and rocks are placed around the base to enhance this.

Lady Knox Geyser

In 1901 the first open prison in New Zealand was established at Wai-O-Tapu to house some of the better behaved prisoners from around the gaols of the Rotorua Lakes District.

Some of those prisoners discovered the clearing in which the geyser is situated and that the spring could be made to erupt by adding soap - as they found when they first used the hot water to wash their clothes.

Our next stop was at Wai-O-Tapu which in English means "Sacred Waters."

Wai-O-Tapu

Above is the entrance which leads to a gift shop with many souvenirs for sale.

Entrance Garden

After going through the gift shop, you walk along this walkway which leads you to the geothermal "park."

Map of Wai-O-Tapu

Steaming Fumeroles - The Devil's Home

The Devil's Bath Lake

The green color is from colloidal sulphur/ferrous salts.

The luminous green Devil's Bath is a large rugged edged crater near the bush line with amazing natural water colour at its base. The colour comes from the excess water from the champagne pool mixing with sulphur and ferrous salts. Changes in colour through Green to Yellow are associated with the amount of reflecter light and cloud cover.

26. Rotorua Snapshots

2009-12-07T02:51:00.000+13:00

Monday 8 January

After a very late night today was a bit of a lazy day with a late rise out of bed and amble around just enjoying what was around.

Rotorua Collage

At the end of the day, an easy tea was the order of the day - 3 eggs, tomatoes and 4 pieces of toast at 9.30pm. Then pack the case ready for tomorrow's early start.

25. Rotorua - Tamaki Māori Village 4

2009-12-06T09:58:00.003+13:00

Sunday 7 January

After the concert we were taken into the dining hall for a traditional hangi. Hangi is the traditional Māori way of cooking food. A huge pit is dug, the food is placed in baskets in particular layers and the pit sealed. It is then left to cook for several hours.

As there were many tables, each table was called up in turn. The table I was at was one of the last to be called up, so we missed out on a couple of things. I had kumera, potato, roast lamb and chicken. Dessert was pavlova and steamed pudding. I had both - yes, yes, I know it was greedy, but what the heck, you only live once and who cares about calories when they're on holiday anyway?

I bought a glass of "Tamaki Punch" which was $6.50. At the gift shop, I later purchased a fridge magnet in the shape of a kiwi for $7.80.

Cooking Pit

One of the several cooking pits. In the background you can just make out part of the dining hall.

Totem Pole

Each totem pole tells a story about the person or tribe who carved it.

Wharepaku

Suddenly it was after 10 o'clcok and it was time to head back. We all piled into the bus filled with bonhomie and food and at our driver's instigation started singing a song or two.

As we approached the roundabout to turn into Rotorua, our driver said, "Come on everybody, let's all sing The Wheels of the Bus" So we sang along with him - "The wheels of the bus go round and round, round and round, round and round, The wheels of the bus go round and round..." and as we turned the roundabout, to our amazement, he didn't go to Rotorua, but kept going around and around and around in circles. You should have seen the looks of surprise at the drivers (and passengers) of the cars stopped there as not one, but five or six buses went around and around and around one after another.

Mark told us they did this every night - the locals are used to it and sometimes come out to watch, but the tourists don't know what hit them! We were all in stitches, almost rolling around on the floor with laughter.

This was the highlight of my New Zealand trip, as I knew it would be and I would recommend to anyone going to NZ to do this tour - it's fantasy, history, and fun all rolled into one.

Kia Ora.

24. Rotorua - Tamaki Māori Village 3 - The Haka

2009-12-06T09:33:00.001+13:00

Sunday 7 January

The famous Haka
And finally, came the pièce de résistance - the Haka! This was what I wanted to see more than anything and it was the highlight of the evening.

The Haka

Sitting just a few feet away from these huge blokes all decked out with tattoos and traditional Māori dress, waving their arms, ferocious scowls on their faces, chanting and yelling loudly in the middle of a forest, pitch black is quite an experience, let me tell you. I mean, I knew it was a concert, and I knew we were all safe and happy, but...I wouldn't like to have been their enemy in olden times.

Watch the Haka

The Battle Haka
The peruperu is characterised by leaps during which the legs are pressed under the body. In former times, the peruperu was performed before a battle in order to invoke the god of war and to discourage and frighten the enemy. It involved fierce facial expressions and grimaces, poking out of the tongue, eye bulging, grunts and cries, and the waving of weapons. If the haka was not performed in total unison, this was regarded as a bad omen for the battle. Often, warriors went naked into battle, apart from a plaited flax belt around the waist. The aim of the warriors was to kill all the members of the enemy war party, so that no survivors would remain to undertake revenge.

The Origin of Ka Mate
The most well know Haka is the Ka Mate. In the early 1800's, a chief by the name of Te Rauparaha composed Ka Mate, the most well known of all haka. He was chief of the Ngati Toarangatira (Ngati-Toa) a branch of the Tainui tribe, and dwelt in Kawhia, north of the Waikato. There were inter-tribal wars - a bitter story of constant skirmish, reprisal and territorial dispute.

Ka mate, ka mate
Ka ora, ka ora
Tenei te tangata puhuruhuru
Nana i tiki mai whakawhiti te ra
Upane, upane
Upane kaupane
Whiti te ra.

These words are translated as:

It is death, it is death
It is life, it is life
This is the hairy man
Who caused the sun to shine again for me
Up the ladder, up the ladder
Up to the top
The sun shines.

This is the Haka as performed by the All Blacks.

A word on pronunciation

The 'wh' is pronounced as an 'f' or 'ph'.
The 'e' on the end of a word is sounded as if the word ended in 'ay' as in 'hay'.
The 'au' is pronounced as the 'ou' in 'hour'.
The 'u's are all long like 'ou' in 'you'.
The 'a's are all sounded long as in 'ah'

Kia Ora!

23. Rotorua - Tamaki Māori Village 2 - The Concert

2009-12-06T08:46:00.002+13:00

Sunday 7 January

We we then tatken into a large room and watched traditional Māori dances.

Māori Dance

I was fascinated by the tattoos.

Māori Dance

Māori Dance

22. Rotorua - Tamaki Māori Village 1

2009-12-06T08:41:00.002+13:00

Sunday 7 January

The mini-van picked me up from the hostel and then we stopped at the Tourist Office in Hinemaru Street, where we waited while a few other people boarded. Our driver was a jovial Māori chap called Mark and each time he opened or shut the door it made a shuddering clang! He was funny and fun to be with and welcomed us in different languages - I think he said he could say welcome in 74 languages!

He asked us what country we came from and told us we all had to do an imitation of a bird or animal native to our country. I did the Kookaburra. I'm pretty good at kookaburra impressions - if truth be told, it's the only one I can do.

Mark gave us a history about Māori - their customs, way of life etc. and told us we were a tribe and had to elect a Chief. Who'd like to be Chief he asked? Most put their hand up, including me. Then he dropped the bombshell - only a male could be Chief! He would have to go through the ritual of welcome when we reached the village, accept a challenge, pass a test, and make a gift to the village chief on our behalf - to show that we came in peace, not war. A nice-looking young bloke was made Chief (I remember he had blondish hair and was from California) and we all cheered and clapped.

Being Chief has its advantages - you get to eat first!

Village Entrance

After about a 20 minute ride, we arrived at the village and looked around with interest. Mark again reminded our "Chief" of the seriousness of the Pōwhiri (welcome ceremony) he was to participate in and we were instructed not to laugh, talk or move - it is considered extremely rude. We could however take photos.

Pōwhiri
The purpose of the Pōwhiri is to remove the tapu of the Manuhiri (visitors) to make them one with the Tangata Whenua (Home people). It is a gradual process of the Manuhiri and the Tangata Whenua coming together.

Māori Warrior

We entered the village forecourt and waited. A blood-curdling scream rang out from the forest

The Warrior Approaches

Guards

Then the warriors came - in traditional dress they looked fearsome and daring yelling out war cries.

Māori Warriors

Display of Weaponry

Karanga

The karanga usually indicates the start of the pōwhiri (formal welcome ceremony). Carried out exclusively by women and in the Māori language, karanga is initiated by the hosts (tangata whenua). The karanga generally begins with the initiating caller (kaikaranga) from the tangata whenua, and response caller (kaiwhakatu) from the manuhiri.
Like the whaikōrero (formal speech of welcome), karanga follow a format in keeping with correct protocol.

Marae

Marae

The Challenge

Amid war cries, the challenge is thrown down and our "Chief" is being given a test. Imagine having this fellow that close, aim his spear at you – a very effective way of frightening your enemies!

Māori Chief

Our "chief" passed the test, the Māori Chief and ours pressed noses, and we were welcomed into the village. (Sighs of relief)

Some may say it is all for show, for the tourists, and in a way it is - but what you should know, and remember is this..these customs are part of the Māori culture that stems back for hundreds of years, and has been handed down from father to son, from mother to daughter. In this way, their culture is not lost, but kept alive.

It was a most wonderful experience.

21. Rotorua - Accommodation

2009-12-06T04:05:00.004+13:00

Sunday 7 January

Friends who had been to New Zealand all said, "You'll know when you arrive in Rotorua - you can smell it long before you get there - it smells like rotten eggs!"
Lovely.
As it turned out, yes, I did smell the pong for which Rotorua is noted, but it dissipated within a few minutes of arrival.

We arrived in Rotorua at 5.45pm - I was longing for a shower, change of clothes, and a cuppa! Alas, it was not to be - Cactus Jacks stuffed up my booking. They said I was not in the system, no bed available. Daniel, the security guard on duty found the notebook, my name written in pencil. I had been put in Room 17 or 7, - $65 a night.
Not happy Jan

Peter came back, said he would sort something out after I returned from the Hangi which I was going to. Returned 10.30pm - here's your key. Room 29. Filthy, disgusting mess. Turns out I was to share with two fellas. Gawd it stunk!

Not on mate. Got Pete, explained I had booked female dorm. Nothing available. Was given Room 7 - a double. Forty dollars for 2 nights.

Cactus Jacks

I couldn't get the whole place in one single photo, so I took two and joined them together, which is why it appears a little uneven. Cactus Jacks at 1210 Haupapa St Rotorua, has a Tex/Mex theme and this is reflected in the furnishings and outdoor courtyard.

Inside Snapshots

One of the other "inmates" at the kitchen sink. The lounge room. Kitchen table and chairs, and a close-up of the entrance.

The Courtyard

The courtyard out the back is in the middle with rooms going around. You can't see it, but there is a verandah (covered) with velvet lounge chairs and a sofa.
It wasn't all that clean - the cleanliness of the place left a lot to be desired, but the location was excellent and the atmosphere was fantastic - fun, happy, and had a real good feel to it.

20. Waitomo - Caves and Rabbits

2009-12-05T21:50:00.062+13:00

Sunday 7 January

Finally we arrived at Waitomo Caves at 2.00PM. Due to the unfortunate breakdown of our bus, there wasn't time for any cave adventures. I bought lunch from a nice little place with wooden tables and bench seats outside - had fish'n'chips and potato cakes. Cost was only $6.20 - much cheaper than back home!

Waitomo Caves Totem Pole

This Māori Totem Pole stands at the entrance of the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves. Māori have been expert wood carvers through the ages, and store houses, ceremonial buildings, and poles were carved and adorned with detailed carvings which represented a history and paid homage to their ancestors. Carvings were given as wedding gifts, or made from the belongings of conquered enemies to incorporate their spirit into new existences.

Discovery Centre

Angora Rabbit Shearing Shed Entrance

New Zealand's only angora rabbit shearing show is held here at Waitomo. You can have the unique experience of patting a white German angora rabbit and watch them being shorn.

The Shearing Shed

The shop specialises in angora fibre products and there is a very nice selection of knitting yarn and hand-knitted garmets along with other New Zealand-made products.

German Angora Rabbit

One of the white angora rabbits - you've probably seen sheep being shorn but rabbit shearing can only be seen here at The Shearing Shed

19. Auckland - Mt. Eden and a Broken Bus!

2009-12-05T10:48:00.002+13:00

Sunday 7 January

Well now, it's time to head down the North Island. The bus arrived and we left at 7.50am. (That's one of the good things about the hop-on/hop-off backpacker buses - they pick you up and drop you off at your accommodation. None of this having to lug heavy suitcases and/or backpacks behind you!)

First, we went to Mt. Eden - the winds were icy, and this is summer?! Mount Eden, (Maungawhau, the 'Mountain of the Whau tree' in Māori) is the name of a cinder cone and surrounding suburb in Auckland City, New Zealand, situated five kms south of the city centre. The mountain is the highest natural point in the whole of Auckland. The English name honours George Eden, 1st Earl of Auckland.

Auckland from Mt. Eden

You can see how the Sky Tower dominates the city skyline. And at 328 metres, it is the tallest man-made structure in New Zealand and offers breathtaking views for up to 80 kms in every direction. In the background you can see Freeman's Bay and Stanley Bay.

Auckland again

Actually, I have cropped this photo - I was standing in the front and decided I rather spoilt the picture! Alas, I thought I liked having me in front of things and saying, "Hey, look at me! Here I am at 'such-and-such-a-place'!"
I have learnt better. Now when I take photos, I definitely do not want to look back and see me standing there.:-) Ah...we live and learn, eh?

On top of Mount Eden

I have lightened this and used "poetic licence" by adding a tinge of pink to the sky as the original was very dark.

Cattle Rights

Cattle graze on the slopes of Mt. Eden and buses (and other traffic) need to negotiate and give them way. It was lovely to see them so close to a city.

Cattle close-up

It seems that cattle grazing on Mt. Eden will be a thing of the past, according to this report. How sad. I am glad (and lucky) that I had the chance to be here before this happened.

Back on the road
After Mt. Eden, we all filed back on the bus and travelled along the Auckland Hamilton Highway through the Bombay Hills and stopped at Mercer for a coffee. I ordered a small coffee and received it plus a large-sized one too! As my old Dad always said, never look a gift horse in the mouth. I drank both.

On the road again, and the bus was playing up. Paul, our driver, said the engine was heating and showing RED so we had to return to Mercer.

Broken Down

The chap on the left is Paul, and on the table is a book - Maeve Binchy's "The Glass Lake", which I was reading. That's my camera case on top. Isn't it amazing how photos bring back memories?

We Wait

Here you can see some of the others all in varying poses of relaxation. Some went for walks, some ate, and others just chilled out and napped under the trees or in the sun.

Ah..what a lovely way to spend 2 hours! The replacement bus came at 12.10PM!
This meant that our time in Waitomo would be cut short, but hey.. it's a holiday and something that you look back on with fond memories. I didn't really mind the wait. It was nice not having to rush somewhere or be anywhere.

Below: Mt. Eden and Mercer. Click on the blue markers for photo.

View Mount Eden NZ in a larger map

18. Auckland - City Walk

2009-12-05T04:18:00.002+13:00

Saturday 6 January

Most of the morning was spent just lazing around the hostel. When I finally got my skates on and went for a walk around the city, I was surprised at how dark Auckland was.

Aotea Square's Māori gate

At the Queen Street entrance to Aotea Square is an arch called 'Waharoa' (Gateway in Māori), formed in wood and copper by Selwyn Muru, a Māori sculptor. This is an expressionist version of a traditional Māori entry gate. It features symbols like birds, fish and the crescent moon and stars but also elements like the nuclear disarmament symbol, reflecting the modern influences on New Zealand art.

Aotea Square is a large paved public area in the Auckland CBD, and was opened in 1979 by Sir Dove-Myer Robinson. It is next to Queen Street and is used for open-air concerts and gatherings, and markets and political rallies.

Pedal Power

In busy Queens Street, the main street leading to the harbour, this chap waits for customers.

The White House

As I was walking along Queen Street, I noticed this sign and thought this must be where the President stays when he visits New Zealand.

Advertising

Bright and colourful with his board shorts and tiki. (In Māori usage, the word 'tiki' is the name given to large wooden carvings in roughly human shape. Greenstone 'tikis' are worn around the neck.)

Sir Dove-Myer Robinson

In front of the Town Hall is a bronze statue of Sir Dove-Myer Robinson, a former mayor of Auckland. This work dates from 2003 and is by the New Zealand sculptor Toby Twiss.

Later, I caught the Free City Circuit Bus, (it's bright red) to Wellesley Street, which meant a 10 minute walk back to the hostel. Here is the bus route.
I cooked pork sausages and fried potatoes for tea and sat on the front steps later with a couple of Brits drinking wine.

17. The Hibiscus Coast

2009-12-05T03:34:00.000+13:00

Friday 5 January

Today we head back to Auckland. Driving along the east coast of the Twin Coast Discovery Highway, passing through Kawakawa and Whangarei, down to Warkworth and finally Auckland.

Alpacas

On the way we stopped at Sheepworld Farm and Nature Park and saw the alpacas.

Alpacas

Hand Feeding the Animals

This was a lunch/meal break and we were here for a while. Some fed the alpacas, others just enjoyed the surroundings.

Flowers and Ferns

There were lovely gardens and ferneries and a small brook.

On the way

Here we have sunflowers at Whangarei, an Internet Cafe and "Buzzy Bee" a New Zealand icon. Here it is as a children's ride.

Brynderwyn Hills

We travelled through the beautiful Brynderwyn Hills which is one of the most prominent geographical features between Whangarei and Auckland. The Brynderwyn hills stretch from the Mangawhai Heads on the east coast nearly halfway to the eastern arms of the Kaipara Harbour.

Brynderwyn Hills

16. Bay of Islands - Waitangi

2009-11-29T15:10:00.005+13:00

Thursday 4 January

History of Waitangi Treaty Grounds

The Waitangi National Trust estate comprises 506 hectares and includes the site where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed on the 6th of February 1840. The public have access to this important historic site because it was purchased by Lord and Lady Bledisloe in 1932, and gifted to the people of New Zealand in trust. Lord Bledisloe was Governor-General of New Zealand at the time, and he and Lady Bledisloe visited the property at the suggestion of a local lawyer and MP, Vernon Reed. (Reed had been unable to convince successive governments to purchase the land when it came up for sale).

After only five years in New Zealand and one visit to Waitangi, the Bledisloes recognised the importance of Waitangi as the birthplace of New Zealand as a nation. In November 1932, a Deed of Trust set out the objectives for a place of historic interest, recreation, enjoyment, and benefit for the people of New Zealand, and for the governance of it. Priority was given to the repair and restoration of the former home of the first British Resident to New Zealand, James Busby and his wife Agnes. Initially called the "Residency" the house was renamed, at the request of Lord Bledisloe, to the Treaty House.

Ngātokimatawhaorua.

This mighty waka (canoe) was built by the Ngā Puhi people for the 1940 centenary of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, and sits on the grounds at Waitangi and is believed to be the largest waka ever built.

Named Ngātokimatawhaorua., the canoe requires a minimum of 76 paddlers and can carry 55 passengers and was launched as part of the Centenary Celebrations in 1940, to mark 100 years since the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.

Ngātokimatawhaorua Figurehead

It bears the name of the canoe of the great Polynesian explorer Kupe, who visited Aotearoa (New Zealand) many hundreds of years ago. It was carved from the trunks of three large kauri felled in the Puketi Forest, and its design is based on that of earlier waka used by Māori to travel up and down the coast of New Zealand.

It was named after the canoe which brought the Māori people from Hawaiki and was captained by Nukutawhiti, the grandson of Kupe, the Polynesian discoverer of New Zealand. Ngātokimatawhaorua is launched every year on the 6th February, to mark the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. At 35.7 metres long and up to 2 metres wide, it weighs 12 tonnes, and is a key attraction at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in the Bay of Islands.

15. Bay of Islands - Waitangi

2009-11-29T11:13:00.004+13:00

Thursday 4 January

The Marae - meeting place

The Marae, sacred open meeting area, generally situated in front of the "whare runanga", communal meeting house, is the area of greatest mana, the place of greatest spirituality ; the place that heightens people's dignity, and the place in which Māori customs are given ultimate expression.

The Marae is the turanga-waewae of the Māori. It is the basis of traditional Māori community life. It is their home. In the Marae official functions take place - celebrations, weddings, christenings, tribal reunions, funerals.

Te Whare Runanga Marae

Te Whare Runanga is the meeting house (marae) at Waitangi, and was built to commemorate the Treaty Centenary Celebrations in 1940. It symbolises Māori involvement in the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, and its underlying role as the document which brings the people of New Zealand together as one nation and was designed to stand alongside the Treaty House.

Although similar in apperance to other marae around New Zealand, Te Whare Runanga is unique because it was built as a national marae to be shared by all Māori tribes.

As you enter Te Whare Runanga, you will notice a figure at the apex of the gable - this is Kupe, the Pacific explorer. The carvings depict ancestors from many Māori tribes.

Kupe

Kupe sits at the apex, and according to Māori legend he was a great chief of Hawaiki and discovered Aotearoa - Land of the Long White Cloud.

The story of Kupe and the meaning of Aotearoa

Kupe left Hawaiki in his waka the Matawhaorua and travelled in search of the fish of his ancestor, Te-Ika-a-Mäui. He had chased Te Wheke Muturangi (a great octopus) during this search.

While approaching what Kupe believed to be Te-Ika-a-Mäui, the wife of Kupe, Hine Te Aparangi, saw the Southern Alps from a distance and thought they were a cloud and called out, "He ao! He ao!" (A cloud! A cloud!"). As they drew closer she exclaimed "He aotea, he aotearoa!" (A white cloud, a long white cloud!). And so the land was called Aotearoa - 'Land of the long white cloud'.

Kupe confronted and defeated Te Wheke at the entrance to Totaranui (Queen Charlotte Sound) and he travelled around Aotearoa naming many places along the way. After circumnavigating the North and South Islands of Aotearoa, Kupe and his crew returned to Hawaiki with treasures such as preserved moa flesh and pounamu (greenstone).

Entrance

Te Paepae Tapu

This is the threshold, the door sill (of a meeting house door).

Inside Te Whare Runanga
The lighting is fairly subdued so some photos were very dim and have not been included. Tribal art styles are represented in the kowhaiwhai (painted rafter patterns), tukutuku (reed panels) and carvings.

Hand carved totara

The Māori of the South Island contributed this handsome carved totara "Coronation" Chair and a beautiful block of tangi-wai greenstone to rest beneath it.

Wharenui

Inside Te Whare Runanga of Waitangi, the wharenui is the archive of their tribe (iwi) recording priceless history (hitori) through the art of carving, tukutuku panels,and kowhaiwhai (scroll work on rafters).

If you click and enlarge this photo, you can see the detail of the tukutuku and kowhaiwhai.

14. Bay of Islands - Waitangi

2009-11-29T05:46:00.004+13:00

Thursday 4 January

Catching the 3pm ferry from Russell, I went to Waitangi and visited the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Here is where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed and it is here you will learn of Māori history and culture.

The Treaty of Waitangi
The Treaty of Waitangi (Māori: Te Tiriti o Waitangi) was signed on 6 February 1840 by representatives of the British Crown and a number of Māori chiefs from the North Island and established a British governor in New Zealand, recognised Māori ownership of their lands and other properties, and gave Māori the rights of British subjects.The English and Māori language versions of the Treaty differ in translation and is therefore difficult to know, and agree, on exactly what was agreed.

Māori began to draw attention to breaches of the Treaty from around the 1960's onwards and subsequent histories have emphasised problems with its translation.

In 1975 the Waitangi Tribunal was established as a permanent commission of inquiry tasked with researching breaches of the Treaty by the Crown or its agents, and suggesting means of redress.

You can read the Treaty here in English and read here in Māori

Waitangi Treaty House - front

The Treaty House was the residence of James Busby and it was here in a marquee that the Treaty of Waitangi (Māori: Te Tiriti o Waitangi) was signed.

Treaty House Flowers

In the back garden were a number of brightly coloured flower arrangements.

Waitangi Treaty House - rear

The Treaty of Waitangi

This timber plaque can be found in the Te Whare Runanga Marae.

Click on the markers below to see images. You can also enlarge the map.

View Waitangi New Zealand in a larger map

13. Bay of Islands - Russell

2009-11-29T05:45:00.008+13:00

Thursday 4 January

Russell of long ago

Russell was originally called Kororareka and was the first permanent European settlement and sea port in New Zealand. The Bay of Islands offered a safe anchorage and had a high Māori population who traded with the Europeans. Without laws, it became known as the "Hell Hole of the Pacific"

Hono Heke, Māori chied - New Zealand (1807-1850)

In 1840 the British government introduced the Treaty of Waitangi and Hone Heke was one of the first chiefs to sign it with the Māori people. But when the commercial operations of settlers began to threaten Maori trade and land ownership, Heke led several battles against the British, famously chopping down their flagpoles at Russell, North Island. (Good for him!).
He never lost a battle and neither side was able to claim absolute victory. Heke escaped penalty as his adversaries did not want to provoke tension in the region.

Many New Zealanders, Māori and non-Māori alike, see him as a political champion of his people.

Russell today
The Russell of today is a far cry from over 100 years ago. Now, it is a relaxed holiday get-away where people go to "get away from it all." Much less touristy and smaller than Paihia, Russell has a charm all of its own. Nothing much happens here and you can stroll along The Strand blissfully breathing in the fresh sea air with a beautiful vista before your eyes.

The Gables

Built in 1847, this lovely cafe/restaurant offers free coffees after 2.30PM. I sat outside just across the road looking out to the bay sipping a Cappuccino under the shade of a leafy tree.

Front Garden

This garden caught my eye as I walked past - with its colourful "chickens" and ornaments it was a real talking point. It also held fascinated children at bay too!

Te Whare Karakia o Kororareka

Christ Church, Russell / Te Whare Karakia o Kororareka was built in 1836 and is New Zealand’s oldest existing church and possibly the oldest building still used for its original purpose.

Its beginnings go back to the earliest years of Maori European contact in the Bay of Islands when missionaries from across the harbour at the Paihia mission station rowed across to take services in private homes.

Two Cultures
On a fifth Sunday the service is taken by clergy from the Waimate Taumarere Pastorate, the Māori strand of the Anglican church in NZ.

Much of the service is in Te Reo Māori but the NZ Prayer Book has an English translation on the opposite page, so all can follow it.

At other times Māori content is part of a special service including the Lord’s Prayer or a himene (hymn).

The Lord's Prayer:
E to matou Matua i te rangi
Kia tapu tou Ingoa.
Kia tae mai tou rangatiratanga.
Kia meatia tau e pai ai
ki runga ki te whenua,
kia rite ano ki to te rangi. Homai ki a matou aianei
he taro ma matou mo tenei ra.
Murua o matou hara,
Me matou hoki e muru nei
i o te hunga e hara ana ki a matou
Aua hoki matou e kawea kia whakawaia;
Engari whakaorangia matou i te kino:
Nou hoki te rangatiratanga,
te kaha, me te kororia,
Ake ake ake. Amine

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12. Bay of Islands - Russell

2009-11-29T05:45:00.007+13:00

Thursday 4 January

Bay of Islands

Taken from the upstairs verandah of Pompallier House. See the people sitting in the garden relaxing? They were playing a game of croquet earlier and it was quite a rare thing to see.

Seacraft in the Bay of Islands

A close-up from the verandah.

11. Bay of Islands Russell - Pompallier House

2009-11-29T05:45:00.006+13:00

Thursday 4 January

Coming back from the Hole in the Rock cruise, for an extra $4 you can get dropped off at Russell and then get the Russell ferry, the Bay Belle, which runs every 20 minutes back to Paihia, and this is what I did.

Pompallier House

In 1839 French Catholic Bishop Jean Baptiste François Pompallier established a mission at Kororāreka, where a two-storied building, housing a printery, tannery and storehouse, was constructed. When priests of the mission moved on, the building was used as a tannery and, from the 1870s, as a grand private home.

Bought by the government as an historic place in 1943, Pompallier House was for many years presented as a stately residence, with gracious verandahs and gardens.

Pompallier House rear garden and a detailed history

This French factory was built in pioneer New Zealand to print Maori language books for the Roman Catholic Mission. The last remaining building of a once-crowded mission headquarters, it is New Zealand's oldest Catholic building, and the oldest industrial building.

In 1838 three Frenchmen, a bishop, a priest and a brother of the recently-formed Society of Mary landed at the Hokianga. The arrival of a French Catholic Mission in New Zealand outraged the English Church Missionary Society and Wesleyan missionaries, who despised Catholicism and thought Maori should be Protestant. It also disturbed the British Resident at Waitangi, James Busby, who feared colonisation by France. But despite their hostility Bishop Jean-Baptiste François Pompallier's mission survived.

Reinforced by the arrival of more French Marist recruits, the Bishop moved to the Bay of Islands in 1839 to found the headquarters of his Vicariate of Western Oceania at Kororareka (now Russell). Kororareka, just across the water from the Protestant Church Missionary station at Paihia and James Busby's Residence at Waitangi, was by now the major trading port of the South Seas. New French Catholic recruits and supplies arrived here from France and were despatched around New Zealand and the Western Pacific. From here Bishop Pompallier and his confreres attended Treaty negotiations at Waitangi in February 1840. And they were here when war broke out on the neighbouring hillside five years later.

Our Lady of Mount Carmel

The narrow site and single, simple building that the Bishop purchased here soon became crowded with a chapel, cookhouse, well house, workshop, houses for Maori visitors and boatmen, and other outhouses. But the Marists knew that to spread Catholicism and to counter the "heresy" of their Protestant rivals they must produce religious texts in Maori. Spurred by the arrival of a printer and printing tools and equipment, they built a printery in 1841-42.

Short of funds, they resorted to the construction traditional to their native Lyon and Rhone Valley in the south of France. The lower storey is made of pise de terre, or rammed earth. The upper storey in pan de bois, or earth panels in a timber frame. The resulting impressive and elegant two-storey French colonial building, completed in 1842, has been a key feature of the town ever since.

In October 1842 the first Maori translations were ready and the printery, complete with bookbindery and tannery, began production. Its crowning achievement was 6,000 handmade copies of the 648-page Ko te Ako me te Karakia o Te Hahi Katorika Romana (The Teachings and Prayers of the Roman Catholic Church).

Religious Artefacts

By 1850, disagreement between Bishop Pompallier and the Marist Society, together with the demands of the growing colony, had led to their moving to Auckland and Wellington respectively. In 1856 the Kororareka mission property was sold to James Callaghan, who tanned leather in the printery until 1863, then moved into it with his family. By 1879, when the Greenways acquired the property, the building was derelict. But Hamlyn Greenway transformed it into an elegant home while his sister, Jane Mair, created a garden from the once-crowded mission compound and the neighbouring property, which Hamlyn also acquired. Then in 1904 the Stephenson family moved in and further developed both house and garden.

All of the families altered the building to suit themselves, but in doing so weakened it. This problem was compounded in 1943 when the Government transformed the house into a historic monument, "Pompallier House". The New Zealand Historic Places Trust took responsibility for the building in 1967. Realising that its history had been misunderstood (it had never been a bishop's palace) and that it had been structurally degraded, in 1990-93 the situation was resolved by returning the building to its original form in a restoration project that was a milestone for New Zealand heritage conservation.

The printery including the original printing press, bookbindery and tanning pits are again working to produce reproductions of the Roman Catholic prayer and instruction books that were printed here in the Maori language through the 1840s. The printery is the only building to survive of the crowded mission site.

The site of the first Roman Catholic chapel is marked in the beautiful garden that was created around 1880 long after the mission was disestablished. The garden is restored to its full glory as the Victorian/Edwardian garden of the later lay owners of Pompallier.

9. Bay of Islands - Paihia Esplanade Walk

2009-11-29T05:44:00.007+13:00

Wednesday 3 January

Paihia is known as the Jewel of the Bay of Islands. The tree is the Pohutukawa Tree, also called the New Zealand Christmas Tree, and is one of the most outstanding plants of the entire New Zealand flora. With beautiful bright crimson flowers it is tough and hardy and can be seen in profusion along the coastal areas.

The Jewel in the Crown

Paihia Visitor Information Centre

This beautiful old building houses the Visitor Information Centre and other retail shops and is located at the Wharf in Marsden Road. The helpful staff will help organise and book activities, transport and cruises. Set amid beautiful clear waters it's a real delight just to stroll down and around this lovely area.

Ducks Crossing

One of the signs I spotted on my walk - alas I became "delete" happy and lost a few photos. (Sigh)

Paihia Hibiscus

Nodding in the breeze was this hibiscus along the waterfront.

10. Bay of Islands - Hole in the Rock Cruise

2009-11-29T05:44:00.006+13:00

Thursday 4 January

Today I'm doing the Hole in the Rock cruise which departs from the Wharf at Paihia. There are two cruises daily - morning and afternoon. I chose the morning one which leaves at 9.00AM and gets back at 1.00PM as that would leave the rest of the afternoon free.

Motukokako Islands

The luxury catamaran the Tiger V, passes by the township of Russell (Kororareka) and several of the historic and culturally significant islands in the Bay, before heading out into the open sea.

Cape Brett Lighthouse

The 14-metre high Cape Brett Lighthouse stands at the entrance to the Bay of Islands and was built in 1908. An isolated settlement was established at Cape Brett in that year and included three identical houses for the lighthouse keepers and their families. Their duties included sending daily weather reports to the Meteorological Office.

For 70 years the lighthouse was staffed. In 1978, a smaller automated light was installed and with this automation came the end of the settlement.

We cruised past the Cape Brett Lighthouse, before arriving at the stunning Motukokako Island, home of the majestic Hole in the Rock.

Motukokako Island (Hole in the Rock)

At the outermost limits of the Bay of Islands, Motukokako Island, also known as Piercy Island, features a large geological fault that has created a sea arch large enough for tour boats to pass through when the weather is good enough.

Piercy Island was named by Captain James Cook, who also named the nearby peninsula Cape Brett, both after Rear Admiral Sir Piercy Brett, then a Lord of the Admiralty. It is called Motukokako in Māori.

The 210 foot hole at sea level was created over centuries by wind and waves making it one of the most naturally beautiful sites in New Zealand.
Today the island is of geological interest because of certain exposed rocks, as well as being a tourist attraction.

Going through the "Hole"

As we neared the dramatic Hole in the Rock our Skipper said over the loudspeaker the weather was too rough and the new boat we were on was too big to fit through and we wouldn't be able to go through the hole. I was so disappointed and so, I know, were the other passengers. The Skipper tried a second time to go through but with the same result and said he was sorry but he'd have to turn around and give it a miss. The disappointment was palpable.

Then he said he was only joking and we would be going through - seems this Cap'n has a good sense of humour and likes to have his little joke - it certainly caused a lot of fun and we appreciated even more the awesomeness of going under that majestic hole.

As we ventured into the dramatic Hole in the Rock – we held our breath in anticipation as the skipper navigated through the narrow space and admired the rock walls which soared above us. If you're on the top deck watch out for water drops!

On the Tiger V

Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island

Urupukapuka is the largest island in the Bay of Islands and is historically important with a rich archaeological landscape. A total of 66 archaeological sites have already been identified on the 208ha island. Most date from hundreds of years of Maori settlement prior to European arrival.

Today it is a recreational reserve. The Zane Grey Café does very good lunches - I had fish'n'chips and a glass of wine. It is a lovely relxaing place to unwind on the golden beach - the water was so clean and so clear, and you can also camp there.

Did you know that the Zane Grey Café/Resort was opnce home to the famous American adventurer and writer Zane Grey?

Urupukapuka Island is the largest of over 140 islands in the Bay, and is steeped in both Māori and European history. Urupukapuka has an area of 580 acres and was vested by the Crown as a recreational reserve in 1970. And as such, Urupukapuka is the only island in the Bay readily accessible to the public.

Fullers Ferries

Mapping Route

The last two photos aren't mine, they're from Fullers as I didn't think to photograph the boat and I lost my copy of the map route.

8. Bay of Islands - Paihia Accommodation

2009-11-29T05:43:00.009+13:00

Wednesday 3 January

The YHA Paihia is a lovely two-storey white weatherboard place on the Cnr of Kings & MacMurray Roads, and a mere 100 meteres from the beach. The outdoor area is undercover with some nice greenery with the lounge overlooking it.

Paihia YHA

Outdoor Courtyard

Most people staying here ate outside, there is a thick clear plastic "curtain" to protect from the wind.

Juniperus chinensis 'Pyramidalis'

The potted plants placed around the area made a nice touch and gave it a pleasant ambience.

The Lounge Room

Comfortable sofas and colours of green and burgundy made for a welcoming feel.

Lounge and Computer Area

The area immediately to your right as you enter has computers and internet.

The Dorm

This was my dorm - a 4 bed dorm, mine was on the left and each dorm has its own small ensuite. The YHA also has single/double/private rooms.

7. Bay of Islands - Te Ti Bay, Paihia

2009-11-29T05:43:00.008+13:00

Wednesday 3 January

Beautiful Te Ti Bay

The broad sweep of Te Ti Bay is Paihia’s most popular recreation beach and a variety of activities are here. It is fantastic for picnics, swimming, sunbathing, surfing, water skiing, fishing, kite surfing or wind surfing.

At the northern end of the beach you will pass Te Ti Marae on left. It was to this marae that Maori chiefs retired for the night to consider the Treaty of Waitangi before deciding to sign it at Waitangi on 6 February 1840.

Paihia’s main boat launching ramp is on your left at the northern end of the bridge. In summer it is a bustling scene from before dawn as fishing enthusiasts launch their craft.

Paihia Click on blue marker for photo

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6. Bay of Islands - Haruru Falls & The Magic Bus

2009-11-29T05:43:00.007+13:00

Wednesday 3 January

The Magic Bus

Well, it's back on the bus as we travel coast to coast. We have left Opononi behind and head east on the SH 12 (State Highway) going through Motutoa and Kaikohe passing some beautiful countryside. When we reach Pakaraka, we make a left turn onto SH 10 and turn right at Puketona on Puketona Road for our next stop.

Haruru Falls

Haruru Falls was New Zealand's first river port and an aramoana (sea road or ocean path) for the inland Maori tribes and for the early vision boats. Surrounded by wilderness, the water of Haruru Falls in Paihia on the North Island of New Zealand cascades over the rock cliffs to the pool below.

Haruru Falls provides a break from the coastal scenery of the Bay of Islands area. This 5m waterfall spans the Waitangi River so it's much wider than it is tall and you can kayak to the waterfall from the Waitangi Estuary. It's just a short drive from the seaside town of Paihia and a just-as-short walk to the falls - 3 kms.

Haruru Falls

Below:Click on the blue marker to see a photo.

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5. Bay of Islands - Opo the Gay Dolphin

2009-11-29T05:42:00.014+13:00

Wednesday 3 January

Opononi at Hokianga Harbour was our next stop, and here in the small visitor's information centre, we heard the tale of Opo the gay dolphin and watched a black and white video from 1955. I have searched Youtube but have been unsuccessful in finding it, so I will tell you the story.

The Story of Opo
In the early summer of 1955, a lone bottle-nose dolphin swam into the Hokianga Harbour and started reacting with humans. Known as Opo, she became a favourite, first of the local community, then of its holiday-making visitors, and finally of the whole nation.

She reacted well with most everyone she came in contact, and especially with thirteen-year old Jill Baker, whose parents ran the nearby tearooms. Opo and the girl formed a very strong bond; Opo would tow Jill around the bay, and the girl would teach her tricks. Opo was especially careful and gentle when she was around small children. She loved children but seemed to know how fragile they were.

Very few local Maori played with Opo. They believed Opo was a taniwha, a messenger sent by Kupe back to his point of departure for Hawaiki. Dolphins have also figured in Western mythology, from the time of the Greek gods, as creatures friendly to humans. So in Opononi, Polynesian and European mythology came together to form a fabric that was a uniquely New Zealand one.

Above: Opo

Once the first newspaper articles and photos appeared in December 1955, Opononi became a magnet for holidaymakers wanting to see her. Hordes travelled by car or bus along dusty, unsealed roads to stay in the camping ground or the hotel, both of which quickly became booked out.

As thousands of visitors started to arrive at Opononi, she put on a show for them at the beach there almost every day, making some people scared for her safety: they thought such extreme interaction with humans would harm her. In response, the government passed a law limiting human interaction with her. But not everyone welcomed this law. Fishermen blamed Opo for their empty nets, others saw the law, which protected all dolphins in the Hokianga harbour, as a threat to the supremacy of man over nature.

Above: Welcome to Opononi sign, 1956

The day after the law was passed, Opo was found dead. During the night, a fisherman had blown her up with gelignite. The whole nation was devastated. The local community gave her a public funeral, and erected a statue of her in remembrance of her loving spirit.

Opo's memorial statue sculpted by Russell Clark.

Read this eye-witness account by Piwai Toi. Ehare te toka i Akiha he toka whitinga ra tena, ko te toka o Mapuna, ko te ripo akake e kitea.

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3. Auckland - Planes, Buses & Beds

2009-11-29T05:42:00.013+13:00

Tuesday 2 January

Flying Air New Zealand
Well, my adventure begins and I'm off to Auckland. The plane left on time and the seats were very comfortable. We had tea, coffee and biscuits - all free, none of this having to pay for stuff. I bought a bottle of New Zealand wine (well, I had to try some of the local stuff) and quite nice it was too. A bottle of Gisborne white.

Just before the Captain said those words all passengers like to hear, "Please fasten your seat belts ready for landing", two young children, a girl and a boy came down the aisle with large cane baskets filled with boiled sweets and gave some to each of us. This, I found out, was a remnant of the old days of flying (most airlines these days have long since dropped this nicety). Sucking on a lolly helps with the air pressure from building up in the ear drums. Wasn't this nice? I thought it a lovely idea.

Anyway, we landed, collected luggage - have you ever noticed that it's always your luggage that seems to appear last? Caught the shuttle bus for the ride into town, arriving at the YHA at 7.00pm. The silly driver overshot the mark by a few streets and there was I, suitcase in tow lugging that thing up the hill. One good thing came of this though - I now pack a lot lighter. Which is good.:-)

Auckland International YHA

The YHA was lovely and clean and best of all - it had a lift. There is no outdoor area being right in the city so those of us who smoke just sat on the step outside. I bought a bottle of NZ red wine for $20 which wasn't a bad price. But in all honesty, if you're a red wine drinker like me and you like your reds full bodied don't buy New Zealand reds - stick to white. They don't make good reds, they're too light. After staying up I finally went to bed at 2am.

Lounge/Dining Area

This is the dining area - to the rear is a well-equipped kitchen and in the front (which you can't see here) is the lounge area.

The Kitchen - stainless at its best!

This was a really good kitchen to work in - all new appliances, stainless steel benches and stovetops, plenty of pots and pans and boiling water on tap. Plus there are plenty of windows along the wall making it bright, cheerful and airy.

The Dorms

Yes, another hostel, another dorm. The beds are comfortable and clean - what more could anyone ask for? Well do I remember my first ever time in a hostel and staying in a dorm. those days have long gone and I love staying in dorms and not only becaus of the price either. If like me, you travel alone, then it's wonderful to meet and mix with other travellers and share stories etc, with them.

Below: Auckland YHA Click on blue marker for photo.

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4. Bay of Islands - Magicbus, Matakohe and Waipoua Forest

2009-11-29T05:42:00.011+13:00

Wednesday 3 January

Up early today - today is the start of my "tour" with Magic - New Zealand's hop-on/hop-off backpacker bus. Below are the two passes I chose - Kiwi Traverse and Northland Escape. But when I did this, the route for Northland was different - we headed north along the Kauri coast (west)then east to Paihia and south down the Hibiscus coast (east coast)

The driver pulled up at the YHA around 8.50am, loaded up our luggage and we were off.

Matakohe House

Our first stop was at Matakohe. We visited the Kauri and Pioneer Museum and had morning tea/early lunch at Matakohe House, where I enjoyed a couple of sausage rolls and a yummy slice of carrot cake. Matakohe House is a charming B & B and has a licensed cafe and their menu consists of fresh, locally home-grown produce and often freshly caught seafood. The staff were friendly and helpful and it was a very pleasant place to spend time enjoying good coffee and the comfortable atmosphere.
For the convenience of the travelling public, toilets (wheelchair friendly) are provided within the cafe complex. Also available to the coach crews is an area in which they can relax, read the newspaper or watch television while their passengers enjoy the varied attractions

Tane Mahuta

After passing through Dargville, the road narrows somewhat on the way through the Waipoua Forest, which was our second stop of the day. The forests of Waipoua are the garden of Tane Mahuta - the "Lord of the Forest", the largest Kauri tree in New Zealand, with a height of 52 metres. it is said to be 1,200 years old.

The Story of Tane Mahuta
In the beginning there were no earth, no sky, no sea. Out of this desire came the two primal parents Papatuanuku ( the Earth mother) and Ranginui ( the Sky father). They embraced in the realm of night and seventy children were born to them, all male, and thus Ira Atua (the first family) came into being. Living in darkness and longing to experience the Image courtesy of Taiamai Toursworld of light and day, the siblings decided that their parents should be separated.

However, not all the children agreed. Tumatauenga ( the deity of war) wanted them killed. Tane Mahuta ( the deity of man and forests and everything that dwells within) thought they should be separated, with Ranginui going above t the sky and Papatuanuku dwelling on the earth below. In turn they tried to separate their parents. Rongomatane (deity and father of cultivated foods) tried, but with no success. Tangaroa (deity of the sea), followed by Tumatauenga also tried but to no avail. Finally Tane Mahuta placed his shoulders against the ground, thrust his feet upwards and pushed.

The sinews binding his parents stretch back and forth, heaving and swaying, until finally the parents were separated and the children experienced Te Ao Marama (light of day) for the first time. When this happened, Tawhirimatea (deity and father of winds and storms) who had not agreed to the separation, went up to the sky to be with his father.

When the separation was completed there was only one thing lacking, the uha ( female element). Since there were no women, Tane took some clay from a place known as kura-waka and fashioned it into the form of a women. Then he breathed life into the nostrils, and thus was created Hine-ahu-one (the earth formed maiden). Tane Mahuta and Hine-ahu-one had a daughter and thus the family of man had begun.

The Passion Wagon

This van from Wicked Campers was parked on the outskirts of the forest and gave rise to much merriement - it seemed to be a throwback to the "hippy" days of the 1960's - make love not war!

Matakohe Click on blue marker for photo

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2. Christchurch - Accommodation

2009-11-29T05:41:00.003+13:00

Monday 1st January

Reception Desk

The staff at reception were very friendly and helpful and a few basic items of food are sold here.

In the lounge area are two massage chairs, although I didn't use them those who did said they were marvelous - a good cure for aches and pains!

The Kitchen

The Christchurch Central YHA boasts a well equipped kitchen with the dining area to the right leading to the lounge area.

The Beds

All the bunks here are split level bunks, so there's no-one sleeping above your head. Mine is the one at the bottom - yes that's right - the messy one!

Christchurch City Central YHA Click on blue marker for photo

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1. Christchurch - Arrival in New Zealand New Year's Day 2007

2009-11-29T05:40:00.003+13:00

Monday 1 January 2007

Airport Christmas Decorations

Monday 1 January
The plane arrived fashionably late - 30 minutes late. It took forever to get through customs, so many people, so many suitcases. It was exciting and exhilarating at the same time. As it was still technically the festive season, the airport was decorated with lovely Christmas decorations, tinsel and statues. Meet Father Christmas and Mrs. Christmas - Santa Claus and Mrs. Claus. It was welcoming to walk past them as I made my way through the airport to the exit.

The Wishing Well

The wishing well at Christchurch Airport is to wish people well who are leaving the country - you throw a coin in for good luck - for a safe trip.
Had a smoke outside and nearly froze to death! The wind was icy and I could feel goosebumps - in fact I had gossegumps on my goosebumps. I remember thinking This is summer? Considering it was about 20ºC when I left Melbourne it was a real shock to find myself in winter conditions. Met a very nice chap named Richard, he was Maori and we stood chatting, deploring the weather and he told me a little about New Zealand.

Christchurch City Central YHA

This is where I stayed when in Christchurch. It's in Manchester Street and quite near the city centre. I caught the free city shopper bus down to Pack and Save (a NZ supermarket) to buy some supplies - apricots, tomatoes (they tasted wonderful)corned beef, half a dozen eggs, bread, marg, cherries and chips. Cost - $20. Not bad, I found the food prices were a bit cheaper here than back home.

Christchurch Airport map Click on the blue marker for photo.

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