13. Bay of Islands - Russell

Thursday 4 January


Russell of long ago

Russell was originally called Kororareka and was the first permanent European settlement and sea port in New Zealand. The Bay of Islands offered a safe anchorage and had a high Māori population who traded with the Europeans. Without laws, it became known as the "Hell Hole of the Pacific"


Hono Heke, Māori chief - New Zealand (1807-1850)

In 1840 the British government introduced the Treaty of Waitangi and Hone Heke was one of the first chiefs to sign it with the Māori people. But when the commercial operations of settlers began to threaten Maori trade and land ownership, Heke led several battles against the British, famously chopping down their flagpoles at Russell, North Island. (Good for him!).
He never lost a battle and neither side was able to claim absolute victory. Heke escaped penalty as his adversaries did not want to provoke tension in the region.

Many New Zealanders, Māori and non-Māori alike, see him as a political champion of his people.



Russell today
The Russell of today is a far cry from over 100 years ago. Now, it is a relaxed holiday get-away where people go to "get away from it all." Much less touristy and smaller than Paihia, Russell has a charm all of its own. Nothing much happens here and you can stroll along The Strand blissfully breathing in the fresh sea air with a beautiful vista before your eyes.

The Gables

Built in 1847, this lovely cafe/restaurant offers free coffees after 2.30PM. I sat outside just across the road looking out to the bay sipping a Cappuccino under the shade of a leafy tree.


Front Garden

This garden caught my eye as I walked past - with its colourful "chickens" and ornaments it was a real talking point. It also held fascinated children at bay too!


Te Whare Karakia o Kororareka

Christ Church, Russell / Te Whare Karakia o Kororareka was built in 1836 and is New Zealand’s oldest existing church and possibly the oldest building still used for its original purpose.

Its beginnings go back to the earliest years of Maori European contact in the Bay of Islands when missionaries from across the harbour at the Paihia mission station rowed across to take services in private homes.

Two Cultures
On a fifth Sunday the service is taken by clergy from the Waimate Taumarere Pastorate, the Māori strand of the Anglican church in NZ.

Much of the service is in Te Reo Māori but the NZ Prayer Book has an English translation on the opposite page, so all can follow it.

At other times Māori content is part of a special service including the Lord’s Prayer or a himene (hymn).

The Lord's Prayer:
E to matou Matua i te rangi
Kia tapu tou Ingoa.
Kia tae mai tou rangatiratanga.
Kia meatia tau e pai ai
ki runga ki te whenua,
kia rite ano ki to te rangi. Homai ki a matou aianei
he taro ma matou mo tenei ra.
Murua o matou hara,
Me matou hoki e muru nei
i o te hunga e hara ana ki a matou
Aua hoki matou e kawea kia whakawaia;
Engari whakaorangia matou i te kino:
Nou hoki te rangatiratanga,
te kaha, me te kororia,
Ake ake ake. Amine

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